In the stillness of night, firelight ripples across the surface of the river.

Boats glide through the darkness, tracing golden paths of flame upon the water.

Above, on Mount Kinka, Gifu Castle glows softly — once the stronghold of Oda Nobunaga, one of Japan's great unifiers of the 16th century.

For over a thousand years, this river has reflected the same sacred glow — a quiet night of prayer and continuity.

Ukai, or cormorant fishing, is an ancient Japanese tradition in which a master fisherman, called a Ushō, works in harmony with trained cormorants to catch fish.

On the clear waters of the Nagara River, the goal is ayu — a delicate river fish that lives only in pristine streams.

The brilliance of this method lies in its grace: the birds catch the ayu without harming them, bringing them to the surface in perfect condition.

Through each movement and breath, the Ushō reads the rhythm of nature, and in that rhythm lies a reflection of the Japanese soul — patient, intuitive, and in tune with the unseen.

At the homes of the Ushō, the cormorants are not pets, but members of the family.

They share daily life, meals, and rest; their well-being is carefully tended year-round.

Wild cormorants live five to ten years — but under the care of their human partners, they may live fifteen, even twenty.

This is a life built not on control, but on trust and coexistence.

Ukai, in its essence, is a symbol of harmony between humanity and nature — a living form of empathy shaped by centuries of devotion.

As dusk deepens, flames are lit on the riverboats.

The Ushō stand at the prow, guiding their cormorants by hand and instinct.

Each bird dives beneath the water, and when the rope in the fisherman's hand trembles, a glimmer of silver rises from the depths.

The boats drift downstream in quiet procession.

Then — at the moment called Sōgarami — six boats align across the current, and the river bursts into a single golden shimmer.

It feels as if time itself pauses, suspended between fire and water.

Simply Watching — The Luxury of Stillness

Sit quietly and let the night unfold.

From a viewing boat, a riverside path, or the window of a ryokan, you can watch the flicker of flames and the rhythm of oars.

The less you speak, the more deeply you hear the story of the river.

The Elegance of “Funa-asobi” — Floating Banquets

For those seeking a more refined experience, Gifu preserves the ancient art of Funa-asobi — “boat gatherings” once enjoyed by nobles.

Accompanied by flute and drum, the boat departs into the night and anchors gently along the shore.

Guests dine on seasonal dishes and sake, while geiko and maiko dance beneath lantern light.

Then, as the music fades, the river falls silent — and the cormorants begin to move.

Fire, water, and sound merge into one.

It is a moment of pure, ephemeral beauty — a dialogue between nature and art.

On the Nagara River, Ukai is performed by Japan's Imperial Cormorant Fishers, officially appointed by the Imperial Household Agency.

Only nine families — six in Gifu City and three in Seki — carry this title, passed down from generation to generation.

During the season, eight Imperial Ukai events are held.

The ayu caught that night are presented to the Imperial Palace — a ritual that continues a lineage more than thirteen centuries old.

This is not merely fishing.

It is an art form, a prayer, and a mirror of Japanese aesthetics — where discipline becomes beauty, and silence becomes devotion.

When fire and water breathe together, the soul becomes clear.

The bond between cormorant and human reveals the quiet strength of living in harmony with nature.

In stillness, beauty is born.